Paper patterns to help one make their own dress. One pattern, 3 outfits I love the cut of a Mary Quant 60's mini dress (minus the tall boots). There are people who are interested in these vintage fashion, either wearing the real stuff from that era ("previously-loved" clothes, to vintage connoisseurs or "secondhand clothes", to the uninitiated!) or an 'inspired' piece (copied lah!)
Many would prefer the first as the workmanship is much, much better. They don't cut corners. Stitches are strong - even the thread used is of better quality. The sewing techniques are neater & accurate. You don't get one sleeve longer than the other, crooked lapels (collar) or buttons dropping off! Many are hand sewn according to proper needlework techniques. I studied sewing, so I notice stuff!
Our 'bible' in those tailoring days...
Notice how the stripes line -up perfectly?The cut or fit is better, provided you have the same proportions (body measurements) as model the dress was made according to. This can be a problem as most of the clothes are fitting and cut to a specific body and the fabric is usually not stretchable. And most people do not have the wisp (24") waist & hourglass figure to carry off the clothes. Think "cheongsam". There were no fast-foods back then!
I think I will have problem with the fabric. Fabric technology has come a long way since Chanel first used jersey (stretchable knit fabric) and bias cut fabric to give her wearer some flexibility and ease of wear. Vintage fabric are usually stiff. Darts at various places (bust, waistline) were used to fit the fabric to the body so that it looks figure-hugging. But everyone realises that when one sits down, certain parts of our body expands (tummy-lah!!) and it can be quite uncomfortable.
I remember reading that filmstars of yesteryear (50's) used to have a few copies of the same dress on set - why? When they are standing, the dress is made to fit exactly. But when the scene requires her to sit, she has to change to another simillar dress but looser!! Hollywood magic!!!!
The 70s, was the time synthetic fabric was introduced - polyester, nylon fibres (brand=Teteron) - were scratchy & hot. Believe me! I am very sensitive to the feel of fabric & had to suffer wearing the many dresses, culottes, jumpsuits mom made for us. And cars, rooms & shops did'nt always have air-conditioning! I spent hours at fabric stores everytime Chinese New Year comes around, not spoilt for choice, but desperately looking for soft, comfortable fabric. I once bought a white textured fabric, so soft & comfy, I sewed into a long-sleeved blouse & wore at many occasions. On retrospective, I think that was a kind of 'diaper' fabric.. really!!
Notice the fit & stiff fabric which makes the dress (and wearer) stand out regally!If you are into vintage, the range of designs are quite wide - 50's =regal looking 'Jackie Onassis' style suits; 60's Mary Quant=minis; 70's ="flower children" hippie dresses, bell-bottoms, ponchos, maxis & caftans; 80's=high collared, long sleeved, pleated dresses (Victorian inspired), mutton-sleeves... (personally, I find 80's clothes the most hideous)
An observation: As I take public transport (aka LRT - train), I have been people-watching or rather fashion-watching. There is a senior couple that always take the same coach with me.
Side story : Regular users like us have a favourite spot on the train. Many like to take the middle section (which is usually crowded, because it is nearer to the station's exit turnstiles). Some diehards like me prefer the front of the train - why? It's nearer the driver. If there's any emergency like a power failure, I'd like to know what's being done. If I'm at the back of the train, I'd go crazy not knowing what's happening. That did happen once in a regular night mail train. I bought the ticket late , so was assigned the last coach. The train stopped at a station for an extra-long time but we were in the dark as to what was happening. Only much later did the train conductor tells us to alight the train in near darkness and board the last of the 24 buses waiting for us. Almost did'nt make it if not for a kind gentleman who helped me load all my luggage!
Back to the observation - This senior lady I've noticed has been wearing only 3 dresses of similar design, cut & fit, throughout the many months I've seen the couple. No joke!! The dress is an 80's original - from the look of the fabric & style - fitted at the bodice with a finely pleated skirt attached at the waist. The waistline joint is covered with a piece of bias fabric which is so worn out, it's literally falling to pieces! The fabric looks fragile too, having been washed so many times but because its polyester from the 80's, the colour is still fast & fabric still wearable.
Frugal? Eccentric? Obsessive? Stuck in yesteryear? Lover of vintage?.. I only can say that they are a loving couple. I've never seen the lady by herself. The husband is always smartly dressed in long sleeved shirt & dress pants, by her side. Once a while a third lady (a friend or relative) accompanies them. They look strong & happy. What else does one need? To each his own...
Check out these vintage lovers blogs:
Vintage Socialites - a blog selling vintage clotes at very reasonable price (approx RM50). Visit the blog & enjoy a great retro song selection.
http://dressforyesteryear.blogspot.com
Soul Doctor's Flea Market directory
http://souldoctor.blogspot.com/2005/07/soul-doctors-flea-markets-directory.html
Soul Doctor Fashion blog - vintage finds do work for her
http://souldocfashion.blogspot.com/
